Acne scars can linger long after the breakouts are gone, affecting your confidence and overall complexion. While acne scars can be stubborn, there are effective ways to minimise their appearance and even out your skin tone. Dr Tom Goyer, a skincare expert in Sydney, explains the best methods for treating acne scars, from at-home products to professional treatments, so you can regain smooth, radiant skin.
What Causes Acne Scars?
Acne scars form when the skin’s natural healing process is disrupted by inflammation from severe acne. There are several types of acne scars, including:
- Atrophic Scars: Indented scars that form when there’s a loss of collagen, such as icepick, boxcar, or rolling scars.
- Hypertrophic Scars: Raised scars caused by an overproduction of collagen.
- Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH): Dark spots left behind after acne heals, often mistaken for scars.
Understanding the type of scars you have is the first step to finding the right treatment.
At-Home Treatments for Acne Scars
For mild acne scars and hyperpigmentation, over-the-counter products can improve the skin’s texture and tone over time. Consistency is key when using these products.
1. Retinoids for Skin Regeneration
Retinoids are Vitamin A derivatives that promote cell turnover, boost collagen production, and smooth out skin texture. They can help fade both atrophic scars and PIH.
- How to Use: Apply a pea-sized amount of retinoid to clean, dry skin at night. Start with 2-3 times per week and gradually increase as your skin adjusts.
Tip: Always pair retinoids with sunscreen during the day, as they can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays.
2. Vitamin C for Brightening
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that brightens dark spots and evens out skin tone, making it ideal for treating PIH.
- How to Use: Apply a Vitamin C serum in the morning after cleansing and before moisturising.
Tip: Look for products with L-ascorbic acid for maximum effectiveness.
3. Exfoliation with AHAs and BHAs
Chemical exfoliants like Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) can improve skin texture by sloughing away dead skin cells and stimulating collagen production.
- AHAs (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid): Best for surface-level scars and discolouration.
- BHAs (e.g., salicylic acid): Penetrate deeper into pores, making them ideal for oily or acne-prone skin.
Tip: Use exfoliants 2-3 times a week, depending on your skin’s sensitivity.
4. Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Support
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) reduces redness, inflammation, and the appearance of dark spots. It also strengthens the skin barrier, making it more resilient to further damage.
- How to Use: Apply a niacinamide serum or cream daily, morning or night.
Tip: Niacinamide pairs well with most active ingredients, making it easy to incorporate into your routine.
Professional Treatments for Acne Scars
For deeper or more stubborn scars, professional treatments can deliver noticeable results. Consult a dermatologist or skincare professional to determine which treatment is best for your skin type and concerns.
1. Micro-needling for Collagen Stimulation
Micro-needling uses tiny needles to create micro-injuries in the skin, stimulating collagen and elastin production. It’s effective for atrophic scars like icepick and rolling scars.
- What to Expect: You may need multiple sessions for optimal results, with minimal downtime.
Tip: Pair micro-needling with platelet-rich plasma (PRP) for enhanced healing and results.
2. Laser Resurfacing for Texture Improvement
Laser treatments, like fractional CO2 or erbium lasers, target damaged skin layers, promoting collagen growth and reducing scar depth. They’re highly effective for atrophic scars and improving overall skin texture.
- What to Expect: Some lasers have downtime, during which your skin will peel and heal.
Tip: Follow post-treatment care instructions carefully to avoid complications and maximise results.
3. Chemical Peels for Skin Renewal
Chemical peels involve applying an acid solution to the skin to remove damaged outer layers, improving texture and reducing discolouration.
- Best Peels for Acne Scars: Glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or TCA (trichloroacetic acid) peels.
Tip: Start with a milder peel if you’re new to the treatment, and always consult a professional for deeper peels.
4. Dermal Fillers for Indented Scars
Dermal fillers, like hyaluronic acid, can temporarily fill in indented scars, making the skin’s surface appear smoother. They’re especially effective for rolling scars.
- What to Expect: Results last for several months, and touch-ups are needed to maintain the effect.
Tip: Combine fillers with other treatments like micro-needling for comprehensive results.
5. Subcision for Severe Scars
Subcision is a minor surgical procedure where a needle is used to break up scar tissue beneath the skin, improving the appearance of tethered scars like rolling scars.
- What to Expect: Results improve over several weeks as the skin heals and collagen forms.
Tip: Subcision is often combined with other treatments like micro-needling or fillers for enhanced results.
Preventing New Acne Scars
- Avoid Picking or Squeezing Pimples: Picking at acne can worsen inflammation and increase the risk of scarring.
- Use Sunscreen Daily: UV exposure can darken scars and slow down the healing process. A broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher is essential.
- Treat Acne Early: Preventing breakouts in the first place is the best way to avoid scars. Use effective acne treatments and consult a dermatologist for persistent issues.
Treating acne scars requires a tailored approach that considers the type and severity of the scars. From at-home products like retinoids and Vitamin C to professional treatments like micro-needling and laser resurfacing, there are plenty of options to help you achieve smoother, clearer skin. For personalised advice and professional acne scar treatments, Dr Tom Goyer is here to help. For more expert insights, visit Dr Tom Goyer’s blog.